ࡱ> )` bbjbj .|{{Zf4f4f4f44DuR4$5555555QQQQQQQ$+ShUhR75577R55/RL>L>L>755QL>7QL>L>L>54 N/f4:(L>QER0uRL>U=@UL>L>xUQ05vl6TL>6D7555RR6>555uR7777 uBITX V2 No Audio With the volume control fully clockwise, the AC hum should be the same when touching pin 3 of the LM386 as TP21. Another test is to verify that the mute MOSFET (Q74) is switching correctly. Measure the gate voltage of Q74. It should be zero when receiving and 5 volts when transmitting. Also, you can measure the resistance from TP20 to ground with the radio on. It should be higher than 5kOhms while receiving and less than 200 Ohms when transmitting. If not, then Q74 may be bad. Another problem I have seen with low signal strength is related to the Raduino board. The Si5351 chip failed to lock at the right frequency, which would appear as a jittery signal on any of the three clocks to the mixers and demodulator. In particular, the BFO seems to drop in and out of sync. This could be the case for any of the three clock signals. To test the Raduino, I removed it from the radio, powered it from a USB connection to my PC, and measured the outputs on the mainboard connection. 73Evan TP20 and TP21. I did the same this morning. With volume control fully clockwise. Nice loud hum at Pin 3. Considerably lower hum at TP21, and almost no hum at TP21. Turning the volume control made difference. This morning I checked the resistance measurements you mentioned at TP20. With radio on it measured 70 ohms RX, 2.36K TX. From what you mentioned then I guess Q74 is faulty? I did not make voltage measurement yet. Where exactly is Q74? I don't see it. 73, Richard AG5M Taking another run at this, I confirm I have Zero volts RX at the gate of Q74, if the gate pin is the one closest to D14. And I have 5 volts when in TX mode. Given this information and what's noted below, does this tell anyone anything? Why I have virtually no audio? 73, Richard AG5M Richard, I apologize. It is my turn for a typo. The resistance measurement to ground is at TP21. Q74 acts as a switch that grounds TP21 to mute the audio when transmitting. Evan AC9TU Thanks Evan. I will measure resistance at TP21 and report. I do notice I have good volume (sidetone volume) in TX. Too much actually. Richard AG5M Tried again this morning, this time on the correct TP, TP21. I have 53.6K on RX, 2.1 ohm on TX. So according to what you (Evan) said, that's right. Everything is right so far, but I have weak audio. Time to get out the O-Scope? I do not have a schematic, does anyone have one? I used it this morning to check into the Noon-Time-Net with CW so other than weak audio it appears to be working FB. BTW, is there a setting to reduce the sidetone level? It's really loud! Yes, those readings at TP21 are good. The problem is not with RX muting when not transmitting. The v6 uBiTx schematic is here:  HYPERLINK "https://www.hfsignals.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/ubitxv6.pdf" \t "_blank" https://www.hfsignals.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/ubitxv6.pdf And here for the Raduino board:  HYPERLINK "https://www.hfsignals.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/raduino_tft.pdf" \t "_blank" https://www.hfsignals.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/raduino_tft.pdf Both are from the HFSignals web page:  HYPERLINK "https://www.hfsignals.com/index.php/ubitx-v6/" \t "_blank" https://www.hfsignals.com/index.php/ubitx-v6/ The next step that I would try is the BFO calibration using an audio spectrum analyzer like this one:  HYPERLINK "http://friture.org" \t "_blank" http://friture.org The process is in this video:  HYPERLINK "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6LGXhS4_O8" \t "_blank" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6LGXhS4_O8 You do not need to complete the entire calibration process; just check the last step, the BFO final adjustment at 9:40 into the video. If the Raduino Si5351 has problems, you cannot tune in to the plateau peak. If this test fails, break out the scope and/or frequency counter.73EvanAC9TU Richard, I have had 2 boards with dry solder on the diodes D1-D5 - three legs each may need soldering. Same or similar symptoms. While probing signal level i noticed the sudden jump in volume when I pressed a diodes leg. Re-soldering it cured the rigs.Raj Thanks for the tip Raj. Will check it out. I see D1, D2 and and D4. But not D3 and D5. Where on the board are they located? Guess I better get my strong reading glasses out to help these 80 year old eyes Hi Hi. 73, Richard AG5M Richard, D3 & D4 are together and D5 is a bachelor elsewhere! In another board there was a broken 10 ohm resistor on the BiDi Rx amp stage. Good luck. Rak Hello Richard, 1) Without the scope You can easy check if last audio components are OK. (LM386 audio amplifier and Q70 preamp). If you touch 3rd pin of LM386 or base of Q70 with small screw driver there should be a louder "broom" noise from the speaker. You should touch it while keeping Your finger simultaneously on metal part of screw driver (but first discharge Yourself first from ESD/electrostatic charge by touching some large metal part/pipe etc.). I have marked this points on the picture found on the web. If there is broom then your last audio components are OK. and issue might be everything from poor antenna connector/connection, through some cold solder joint, bad relay, bad transistor... What are the results of 1) check? 2) You can also check first HF components (antenna connector, relays etc.) Please touch with screwdriver (same way - simultaneously finger touching the metal part of screwdriver) P2 antenna connector - pin closer to relays - there should be louder noise from the speaker while touching: Please also touch TP2, TP1 and TP13 (at TP13 noise should be little lower): Give us feedback from results (pin3 of LM386, base of Q70, pin2 of P2, TP1, TP2 and TP13). Regards Tomasz You'll get it to work!! I bought one used and probably I boo-boo'edsomething myself and it took me MONTHS to find the damage I or the previous fellow caused -- oh it was SO SO FRUSTRATING!!! But in the process I learned SO much about low pass filters and the diode switching system.....and it ended up helping our local ham radio group. You will eventually find several little "improvements" that I've authored on this groupover the last few years. They may or may not be helpful to you. DONT QUIT!! Gordon Thank you guys, a brief update, and I'll summarize later into one message. But for now based on new suggestions: Probing, flexing the board, touching diodes, other components, BNC connector, etc., all nothing. Tapping everything, everything seems solid. And I used it this morning to check into the NTN on CW and SSB. So it's working fine in that regard. Good RX TX, no issues with coax, antenna, etc. Only weak audio output. It is off frequency, NTN is on 7.284.00 My display is on 7.282.50. Have not aligned the BFO yet as was suggested. Will get to that. I'm using headphones and Vol is wide open. I do hear a LOUD crackle from time to time like the audio is trying to come back. Touching points listening for hum... TP1 - nothing TP2 - nothing TP3 - can't find yet TP20 - nice loud hum TP21 - very weak hum Gate of Q74 - nothing Pin 2 P2 - nothing Pin 3 of U1 - loud hum, higher pitch than base of Q70 Base of Q70 - loud hum, tone is different than Pin 3 U1 Still have not found D3 or D4. Board is out of its case on my bench. WOW! Just blasted me out of my chair for a second or two, then audio died again. Hear crackles from time to time, something intermittent, it's trying to come back. Is there a CW sidetone adjustment on the board? On CW, about blows my ears off. Audio is sure working in that regard. 73, Richard AG5M Hi Richard, If the dial frequency is off, then do the full calibration steps in the video  HYPERLINK "https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6LGXhS4_O8" \t "_blank" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t6LGXhS4_O8 This will also help with receiver sensitivity.73EvanAC9TU The fact that the SIDETONE is loud -- is a clue. Look and see where it gets injected into the system. Since everything after that is working, the problem is BEFORE where the sidetone gets injected. Try breaking the stages down and by deductive reasoning, or by monitoring (since this is an intermittent problem) -- find the place where the signal seems to dwindle. So far, it appears to be BEFORE where the side tonegets injected. Is the volume control beforethat? My 2 cents Gordon KX4Z In the version six, and potentially in other versions as well, the CW side tone is injected before the volume control and final audio amplifier. So I believe those can be ruled out. As others have pointed out if the BFO is way out of alignment that needs to get fixed pronto. Gordon I thought I posted this yesterday, but don't see it. An apology if this is a duplicate. It appears (to me) that the way K3 is drawn in the schematic is misleading. Shouldn't M2 and M3 be connected during receive and open during transmit? If so, don't overlook K3's normally closed contacts as a possible culprit. Cheers, Do In Farhan's video on frequency alignment he uses a 40m AM signal to zero beat too. Does it have to be a 40m signal? Can't I use WWV at 10 MHz? Or for that matter, adjust to a known signal, e.g., the Noon-Time-Net that meets everyday at 7,284 MHz. Tuning to that LSB signal until I hear the best audio. Just curious. I'm going for an alignment later today. I'll worry about the low audio another day, probably after the holidays. Thank you all, 73 Richard AG5M Hi Richard, Yes you can use any known to be accurate frequency like WWV at 10Mhz. You can also use the NTN to align it, that is exactly the way I did mine and it's still perfect. Joel N6ALT Hi Richard, you can use any known am or CW signal to zero beat. For an SSB signal as Joel suggests you would tune for best audio. I use a 10MHz standard through a step attenuator. This eliminates the extra tones issue with WWV. As stated in the video any known frequency carrier based signal can be used.When using a zero beat process be sure to first adjust the BFO to emphasize the low frequency tones, then adjust the BFO plateau for best audio. If the BFO tuning page is not working, then any audio spectrum analyzer can be used. I use: HYPERLINK "https://friture.org/download.html" \t "_blank" https://friture.org/download.html Evan AC9TU Hi Richard, TP1 - nothing TP2 nothing means really damage...Can You touch TP16? INCLUDEPICTURE "https://mail.yahoo.com/b/folders/452/messages/%20" \* MERGEFORMATINET  Is there still nothing or significant increase of noise? And one more. Is microphone working fine? Can You touch TP20 and check for similar broom as at TP21? This is to check if mic preamp is not shorted... And finally what with TX? Can You measure power while shouting COCA COLA in SSB through power meter? (ATU100?, or maybe CB radio power meter at 10m?)? What is the difference between max power in CW and in SSB? Regards Tomasz ah OK. read now - TP20 loud broom. So, audio components seems to be OK. Waiting for feedback regarding TP16 and SSB power in relation to CW power. By the way. What tools do You have? Multimeter? With diode measurement? Then we could check at least some transistors, diodes. Behavior You described - this can be also crystal filter/resonator. Sometimes they fails. They are micro electro-mechanical components. There is one 45M15F (acc. to schematic) and 8 pcs of 11.059MHz. Regarding 1st one - similar 45M15A can be ordered via Aliexpress. I believe it should be OK. 2nd - 11.059MHz - seems like more popular and widely available. Regards Tomasz Today I tried to adjust the BFO setting per Farshan's video and his website -  HYPERLINK "https://itshamradio.com/bfo-tuning-aid-ubitx" \t "_blank" https://itshamradio.com/bfo-tuning-aid-ubitx. I had no luck at all. Perhaps because I don't have enough audio, or perhaps the original owner of this radio got it so far off I don't know where I am. I do know he tried to set the BFO and never could, or so he told me. Sadly he is now SK so I can't ask him. Right now when I go to align the BFO, I see on my screen 11.053.0. Assuming, if I am right, given the rather tight tolerances of components these days, every unit like this was probably set at the factory at some number +/-, but reasonably close. So, if you would be so kind as to check your BFO setting number, what number do you have? I would assume they should all be reasonably close +/-. Perhaps I should start there. I'm guessing this thing is way way off from the original owner trying to align it. I don't seem to be able to move the audio in the Tuning Aid screen either way. Hi Richard, The original software from HFSignals does not show the BFO value. The value you see when you go into the BFO adjustment is a default programmed into the software. This is the starting point. Note that it is the same value in the video. Watch the video and note the final value that Ashhar Farhan sets when he presses the encoder to lock in the new BFO value. (11,055.4). The BFO tuning aid link does not work. I use Friture, free software, to do the same thing. There are no red lines. The red lines are at 300 and 3,000 Hz. The software is available here for most OSes:  HYPERLINK "https://friture.org/download.html" \t "_blank" https://friture.org/download.html You can also search the app store for your smartphone for audio spectrum analyzer software. These should work as well, and the mic should already be connected to the phone. Record the value before you press the encoder to lock it in so you have a record of the values you have tried. The Si5351 failures have shown up in the BFO tuning. If you can not get the "pedestal" or plateau, you will likely need to replace the Si5351 or the entire Raduino board. I know of at least three radios where this was the case. Raduino boards are available from HFSignals if you do not want to try replacing the Si5351 chip on the board.  HYPERLINK "https://www.hfsignals.com/index.php/buy/" \t "_blank" https://www.hfsignals.com/index.php/buy/ 73 Evan AC9TU Thank you Evan. I'll have another go at it with Friture and report back. Moving the pedestal" or plateau to the left, toward 300 Hz. I have reset the BFO from 11.053.0 to 11055.4 as shown in Farhan's video. It can be the starting point. Hi Richard, Set it to 11056.5. This should be ok. for troubleshooting first. Regards Tomasz I arrived at 11.0555 in most boards. And you correctly said that this is not a settings issue but an intermittent which I classify as the worst to fix but great challenge. Raj On 26/11/2024 12:46 PM, tomekdm sp7etd via groups.io wrote: > Hi Richard, > Set it to 11056.5. > This should be ok. for troubleshooting first. > Regards > Tomasz Richard Just a few thoughts I do not have an uBITX6 but uBITX 3, I had a look at the 6 circuit. Before you continue trying to align it, the first thing to do is to connect an external audio amplifier to TP20 and ground and see whether it makes a difference and continue using it to see whether the fault reappears. If it works and continues to work then the fault could be in the audio chain. If in the audio chain, then it could be Q70 or any of the components associated with it. It could also be Q74 which sometimes goes faulty shunting your audio to earth. I did not mention the LM386 becauseif I remember correctly some time ago yousaid that touching the volume control you can still hear a buzzing sound. I am not sure but if I remembercorrectly you said that the fault does not appear on SSB transmit, so that Q6, its associated componentsand all the circuit after it are not suspect but not 100%. This is because ifQ6is shorting out TP20 will see alow resistance for audio through C63 - Q6 -R63 - C62 together with R 65 and C64 again shunting more audio to ground. As regards audio if Q6 is shorting, R64 (in series with R63) and R65 more or less act in parallel with a value of roughly 500 ohms dropping your audio level. If it also happens on SSB transmit and also on receive check C222-1 becauseit is common to SSB Tx and Rx and if it's playingup sometimes going short circuit it will cause the problemon both Tx and Rx. Hope this helps Regards The NICE thing is that it is "mostly OUT" and only occasionally IN -- which makes following the signal much easier. Unfortunately to get the best dynamic range, the signal level stays quite SMALL throughout much of the receiver. So difficult to follow. If you are able to find another signal source of a tiny level (like 0.1 milliwatt or so ) -- then you can use it to provide a probe to see where the chain isn't working (ie. MODULARIZE the receiver). One way to do that is to get one of the VFO kits from QRPlabs, or a Raduino board from HFSignals, or find an old RF signal generator. Even an ANTENNA TUNER works just fine.-- mine puts out much too much signal so you would even cut it down with a bit of resistiveattenuation-- like 10K in series with 50 ohms and take the signal from the 50 ohms and send it into portions of the receiver. By doing these sorts of targeted tests, putting in frequencies that SHOUDWORK at each stage (by observing the heterodyning that should be going on) you can narrow it down quite quickly -- especially since the AUDIO portion of the receiver is working quite well. You jump back before the product detector and inject the proper frequency there, and see if you can hear it....then jump back another stage (toward the antenna) with the correct frequency....and so on. At some point you can't make it work any more...and that means the stage you just jumped over is the problem stage. Gordon KX4Z Richard, Raj and Lawrence stated that the intermittent low audio is not a settings issue. I agree that there is another issue besides the off-calibration you reported in prior posts. The calibration affects the signal level by aligning the signal to 2 crystal filter pass bands. All three clocks must be calibrated correctly for best performance and display accuracy. Some places to check for intermittent issues: Jumper from P2 pin 2 of the ANT connector to TP2 of the main board. You should not hear any change in signal level with the antenna connected to the BNC. This test eliminates 1/2 of K3 and K1 as possible issues. INCLUDEPICTURE "https://mail.yahoo.com/b/folders/452/messages/%20" \* MERGEFORMATINET  You can then try jumping M1 to M2 to verify the other contacts of K3 are OK. If the audio is still low after calibration, and the above test does not turn up anything, I suggest tracing the signal through all receive stages. I doubt the LM386 is an issue, as prior tests have shown it to work. The most effective way for me is to inject a low-level signal into the BNC port and trace it using an oscilloscope to measure the signal, noting the changes in frequency in each stage. Do you have a signal source for low-level RF? A TinySA (the Ultra model is best) combines a spectrum analyzer and RF generator capability. It is a good tool for verifying signal compliance and tracing through low-level RF stages. Intermittent failures are the most difficult to find. 73 Evan AC9TU Here are links to the TinySA Ultra and a high-impedance probe:  HYPERLINK "https://tinysa.org/wiki/pmwiki.php?n=Main.HomePage" \t "_blank" https://tinysa.org/wiki/pmwiki.php?n=Main.HomePage  HYPERLINK "https://www.60dbm.com/product/ad8307-high-impedance-rf-probe/" https://www.60dbm.com/product/ad8307-high-impedance-rf-probe/ Note: You need the probe to reduce loading on the measured circuits in the receiver. 73 Evan AC9TU Richard, Don't give up. While waiting for your feedback regarding significant (or not increase) of noise while touching TP16 with screwdriver I have a tip for you if no power meter is available, or no antenna. Instead of TX power please provide current consumption. On RX there should be around 370mA. On TX on lower bands (let's say on 80m 3600MHz) on CW, with normally adjusted uBITX v6 - there should be around 1.8A (up to 2A), and the same (up to 2A) on LSB while whistling into mic. Accordingly lower on higher bands, but in general - similar proportions (CW/SSB). This is quite important - if there is significant lower SSB TX power we can shoot into one of the crystal filters sections or semiconductors. TP16 should allow for narrowing area. I am suspecting crystal resonator. Someone (sorry, cannot find it now who) was reporting 2 boards with failed Y1 filter (might be some failed series of components). Also, could you please paste good quality pictures of your board? Regards Tomasz Well now, thank you, you have given me a lot to ponder in this last batch of notes I'll not give up. I'll digest all that and get back to the rig after the holidays. I do have dummy load, RF and AF generators, frequency counters, O-Scope, all sorts of analog and DVMs, etc. as you might imagine having been a Ham for 61 years. And I know how to use them. I do not however have one of those new tinySA things. Christmas? I'll drop a hint to my kids. One of whom is a Ham. Power output on CW and SSB appear to be the same, and I find no intermittent issues when transmitting. TX seems to work FB. As does RX, just weak audio from speaker and/or headphones. And of course I know an alignment is in order for BFO and frequency. I can take and post pictures of the PCB, but it looks like any other v6 PCB you might have. Anything in particular you want to see, any particular section closeup? Hi Richard, "no intermittent issues when transmitting" means RATHER no problems with crystal filters - logically it can be excluded for now on, however crystal may behave differently while changing direction, let's leave it for now on. This component is not easy to check without analyzer, can be also checked with NanoVNA. By the way - both tools is a "must have" for HAM radio amateur today. Returning to topic. "no intermittent issues when transmitting" is rather directing into RX chain between TP13 and TP17 (assuming as informed before loud broom noise while touching from TP20, TP21, leg 3 of LM386 - I think last one needs volume pot adjustment to have loud broom, but if LOUD BROOM is achievable always - audio components seems to be OK.). Touching TP16 and achieving louder floor noise should allow for narrowing the suspected area. Have a good holidays. Regards Tomasz Richard, Have you verified voltages on Q70 leads? Should be When receiving: Collector - 1.68 Base - 0.66 Emitter - 0 Raj VU2ZAP has posted a file for v4 voltages that mostly apply to the v6. It is in the files section of the group:  HYPERLINK "/g/BITX20/files/VU2ZAP" \t "_blank" /g/BITX20/files/VU2ZAP Also, Have you done the jumper tests I outlined in the prior post? (Constantly changing the post title causes the connection to previous posts to be lost. Until the issue is resolved, it would be a good idea to continue to respond to the same post.) 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